December 23, 2019

Thrift Flip: DIY Trapeze Top

I'm finally making a thrift flip video to share with you guys! :) I used an existing camisole to gauge my shoulder and armhole points. Tie shoulder straps measurements: 55cm long and 3cm wide

Edge stitch on the inner piece is also called under-stitch method
Stitch and ditch method can be found here



STEPS TO SEW:

  • I loosen the original gathers of the gingnam dress and cut open the side seams so I can have a piece for front and the other for back
  • I leave about 10cm from both sides before running a long stitch across for the gathers, my stitch length is set at 5
  • I make sure to distribute the gathers evenly so its balanced then i run a top stitch on the gathers to secure the placement
  • I used an existing camisole to mark out my shoulder and armhole positions
  • I'm adding some gathers at the armhole for more flare so I extend about 5cm out 
  • Since I'm going for a straight neckline so I'm leaving the top as it is 
  • Cutting the fabric with 1.2cm seam allowance for the side seams and 1cm for the rest 
  • I measured the original armhole length so I could gather the fabric to match the length 
  • Secure the armhole gathers by running a stitch down
  • After marking 1cm seam allowance for the top, I trim off the excess
  • For the back, I place the front gathered piece on a new rectangular gingham piece to get the same length for side seam 
  • Just like what i did for the front, I run a loose stitch to achieve the back gathers
  • Using the camisole as reference, i am able to get the length of my back  
  • I eave 1.2cm seam allowance on both sides and distribute the gathers evenly before running a stitch to secure
  • Place the wrong sides of fabric together and match the side seams, I used the french seam method for a clean finish. Sew 5mm down on each side and trim off 2mm if necessary 
  • Turn the outfit out and enclose the seams 
  • Pin to secure or iron press before sewing 6mm down from edge
  • For the top bands, I'll be using the camisole as reference again to mark the shoulder points and trace the armholes. Thickness of band is about 4cm 
  • I also matched the gathers to the band to make sure the measurement is correct. 1cm seam allowance for the band before cutting it out
  • I need two pieces for the top band so I'm cutting another piece
  • For the back, i measure the length and cut a 4cm thickness rectangular piece with 2cm seam allowance. I need 2 pieces for the back too
  • Match the side seams for the top bands on the wrong sides Sewing 1cm down from edge for all 4 sides 
  • I trimmed the edges to make sure they are even before continuing
  • I'll be making tie shoulder straps and I need 4 pieces
  • I didn’t have enough fabrics so this piece is joined in the middle
  • Each strap is 55cm long and 3cm wide 
  • Each fold is 0.75cm, its a lot easier to iron press the folds before stitching down. 
  • I also made sure to fold the ends inwards
  • After pressing down, i sew down the edge for all 4 straps 
  • Place the right sides of the top bands together, the seams are on the outside
  • Insert the tie straps into positions and secure with pins
  • After stitching and turning out, it will look like that
  • Insert the other 2 straps for the back  and run a 1cm stitch all around at the top
  • Push the seam allowances to inner piece side and do edge stitch on the inner piece, catching all the seam allowances
  • This is an additional step and its called under stitch, you can do this if you prefer to keep the inner piece from rolling towards the outside. 
  • Before continuing, I make sure to iron press the seam allowance for the inner piece first before attaching the top band to the main piece
  • I'm using the stitch in the ditch method so I only pin and sew the outer piece to the gathers, if you’re using the overlock method, sew together both outer and inner pieces
  • I finish the top band by tucking in the raw seams and enclosing them, you can find the link for this sewing method here
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